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Home Project FYI. Your Home Project Information and Idea Place - Help and Ideas For Your Home Remodeling Project

The Limitations of a Home Inspection

Home Inspection Limitations

As Per The InterNACHI Standards of Practice For a Home Inspection

The Home Inspection Defined

A general home inspection is a visual inspection for system and major accessible component defects and safety issues. The home inspection is not technically exhaustive. A “general home inspection” and a “home inspection” are the same thing.
A home inspection is designed to reflect, as accurately as possible, the visible condition of the home at the time of the inspection. Conditions at a home for sale can change radically in only a day or two, so a home inspection is not meant to guarantee what condition a home will be in when the transaction closes. It’s not uncommon for conditions to change between the time of the home inspection and the closing date.

Above:  an overloaded outlet with no cover

It’s a Visual Home Inspection

A “visual” home inspection means that a home inspection report is limited to describing conditions in those parts of a home that an inspector can see during the inspection. Obviously, parts of the home that are permanently hidden by wall, ceiling and floor coverings are excluded, but so are parts of the home that were inaccessible during the inspection for some other reason. Some reasons might include lack of an access point, such as a door or hatch, or a locked access point, or because an occupant’s belongings blocked access, or because of dangerous or unsanitary conditions.

There can be many more reasons. The point is that if an inspector can’t see a portion of the home, the inspector can’t assume responsibility for ensuring that a safe and proper condition exists or that systems are operating properly in that hidden space.

Safety During a Home Inspection

Safety can be a matter of perception. Some conditions, such as exposed electrical wiring, are obviously unsafe. Other conditions, such as the presence of mold, aren’t as clear-cut.

In the example of the possible existence of mold, it’s difficult to accurately call it out during a general home inspection because mold sometimes grows in places where it can’t be readily seen, such as inside walls, making its discovery beyond the scope of the inspection.  Also, the dangers to human health are from the inhalation of spores from indoor air.

Most people with healthy immune systems have little or no problem with inhaling spores. A few people whose immune systems are compromised by lung disease, asthma or allergies can develop serious or even fatal fungal infections from mold spore levels that wouldn’t affect most people. Every home has mold and mold colonies can grow very quickly, given the right conditions. Mold can be a safety concern, but it often isn’t. The dangers represented by mold are a controversial subject. Other potential safety issues also fall into this category.

Above:  the cutting torch and gutter system of roof drainage management

System Defects Found During a Home Inspection

Although the majority of the inspection is visual, the InterNACHI Standards of Practice do require inspectors to operate space and water heating equipment, and air-conditioning equipment, if it can be done without damaging the equipment.

We will also examine the major accessible components of certain systems as required by the Standards of Practice. Furnace air filters are one example.

A home inspection is not technically exhaustive, meaning that systems or components will not be disassembled as part of the inspection. For example, an inspector will not partially disassemble a furnace to more accurately check the condition of the heat exchanger. Inspectors typically disclaim heat exchangers.

Hazardous Materials Found During a Home Inspection

Asbestos, mold, lead, water purity, and other environmental issues or potential hazards typically require a specialist inspection, and may additionally require laboratory analysis.

Home Inspectors are Generalists

Home inspectors are not experts in every home system but are generalists trained to recognize evidence of potential problems in the different home systems and their major components. Inspectors need to know when a problem is serious enough to recommend a specialist inspection. Recommendations are often made for a qualified contractor, such as a plumber or electrician, and sometimes for a structural engineer.

Above:  the result of subfloor movement

Inspector Qualifications

Very few home inspectors have been in the inspection industry for their entire working lives. According to an InterNACHI poll, about half the home inspectors have a background in the building trades. Those with a construction background started with a general idea of the systems and components that they might find installed, as well as how those systems age and fail.

This doesn’t mean that inspectors with a background in something other than the building trades are not qualified – only that they started in the inspection industry at a relative disadvantage. Building the skills and developing the judgment to consistently recognize and interpret evidence correctly and make appropriate recommendations are things that can be improved with practice and continuing education.

 

Above:  improper electrical splice

Managing Expectations of The Home Inspection

Part of a home inspector’s job is to manage the expectations of their client. This is especially true when a client has never dealt with a home inspector before. Explaining the limitations of a home inspection to a client will help them develop realistic expectations concerning what to expect from a home inspection report, and what lies beyond the scope of the inspection.

When a home buyer is interviewing inspectors, the buyer should ask about how the inspector handles special safety concerns.

Disclaimers are portions of an inspection agreement or report in which an inspector notifies the client that the inspector will not accept the responsibility for confirming the condition of a portion of the home or of a particular system or component.

Creating realistic expectations in a client’s mind will help prevent misunderstandings and promote smooth real estate transactions.
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Wood Decay

Wood decay, also known as wood rot, is the decomposition of wood as the result of actions by certain species of fungi.

Wood decay

Facts about wood decay and decay fungi:

  • According to Ohio State University, replacement materials needed to repair damage caused by wood decay account for nearly 10% of U.S. annual wood production.
  • Carpenter ants, termites and other wood-destroying insects do not cause wood decay. These insects are, however, attracted to wood that has been softened by decay.
  • Decay fungi are active in temperatures between 77° F to 90° F, and need water, oxygen and a food source to survive.
  • Fungi that cause wood decay are called saprophytic, a term also applied to other organisms that consume decayed material. Many species of fungi, along with saprophytic beetles, worms, protists and bacteria are essential components of the decomposition and nutrient cycles.

How does wood decay happen?

Fungi reproduce by manufacturing single-celled spores, similar to microscopic seeds. Spores are tough; they’re able to resist extreme conditions of White decay temperature and humidity and, under adverse conditions, they may go dormant for long periods. Spread primarily by air currents, they collect on horizontal surfaces. Decay fungi feed on the cellulose and lignin of which wood cell walls are composed. Their hyphae, which are threadlike tubes that penetrate the wood, secrete enzymes which dissolve at least part of the wood cell being fed upon, changing it into a form which can then be absorbed as food. Spores require a moisture content higher than the Fiber Saturation Point (FSP) of the wood species upon which they rest, typically between 27% and 30%. Once sufficient water and favorable temperatures are available, spores germinate and develop by extending a hyphal tube. As more spores germinate, fungi multiply to form a colony. Under the right conditions, colonies can expand quickly.

Common types of wood decay:

  • brown rot:  This type of wood decay causes the wood to break down into brown cubes that split against the grain. Advanced stages of brown decay result in dry, powdery wood that is unable to support much weight, and crumbles easily.
  • white rot:  This type of wood decay appears whitish, stringy and mushy, and tends to be more common in hardwoods.
  • dry rot wood decay:  A misnomer, this term has been used to describe decayed wood that has since dried and ceased decaying. Some people may erroneously assume that the wood is still in the process of decay. Moisture is required for wood decay to occur, so no literal “dry rot” exists.wood decay

Identification of wood decay:

Check any areas suspected of containing decay by probing. A screwdriver works well for this. Wood with advanced decay will be soft and the probe will penetrate easily. Areas with incipient wood decay may be a little trickier to identify.

The pick test can also be used to identify decayed wood. To perform this test, a pointed tool, such as an ice pick, is inserted beneath the wood grain to pry loose a thin section of wood till it breaks free. Sound wood will snap crisply and typically breaks off to one side of the pick. Decayed wood will break with a dull sound and usually breaks above the pick’s point of insertion.

Although wood-destroying insects, such as termites, are attracted to decayed wood, they also inhabit sound wood. Always probe or use the pick test to confirm that what you’ve found is sound wood.

Wood Decay Prevention

  • If the wood decay hazard is high, select the heartwood of decay-resistant species, or use wood properly treated with a good preservative. (A list of decay-resistant species can be found later in this article.)
  • Proper grading can prevent water from seeping under the house.
  • Effective roof overhangs, gutters and downspouts should be installed.
  • No untreated wood should be placed within 18 inches of the ground.
  • Adequate cross-ventilation in crawlspaces will help eliminate dead air pockets, which contribute to wood decay.
  • A vapor barrier can be installed on the soil surface to help limit evaporation and return moisture to the soil, rather than allowing it to condense on the floor and above joists. Plastic sheets can cover the soil to act as satisfactory barriers.
  • Dehumidifiers and bathroom and kitchen fans will reduce indoor water vapor, and potentially dry wood enough to prevent decay.

Likely wood decay locations:

  • stairs and attachment points to the house in decks;
  • improperly installed door thresholds, especially beneath sliding glass doors;
  • decks at or near grade;
  • ground-roof penetration;
  • roof penetrations with improper or corroded flashing;
  • beneath windows;
  • support post bases of decks;
  • near corrosion of fittings on plumbing;
  • in basements where housebibs may have burst;
  • in sub-floors at the base of toilets and tub corners;
  • the uphill side of chimneys;
  • sidewall and headwall locations; and
  • untreated wood in direct contact with concrete, masonry or soil.

Moisture can come from:

  • general moisture intrusion of building envelope;
  • plumbing leaks;
  • snowmelt;
  • improperly installed, damaged or corroded flashing;
  • ice dams;
  • finish grades that slope toward the foundation; and
  • foundation cracks.

Types of naturally resistant and non-resistant wood:

  • Resistant woods:  teak, rosewood, oak, redwood, cedar, black locust, red mulberry and yews.
  • Non-resistant woods:  hemlock, pine, maple, aspen, alder, elm, birch, buckeye, poplar and beech.

Wood decay is caused by fungi that are attracted to wet locations.

Wood Decay Info

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