Storage solution:

Are you aware that a research shows that majority of people in the United States of America are suffering from the obsession of hoarding? Well there are some whose obsession has turned into a disorder. Can’t blame them. It is difficult to throw away space-occupying things because many times they are precious to us. And even more often they are completely useless.

So do you possess things that have no place in your house? Do you ever open your cupboard and get frustrated looking at the pile of unwanted crap which you cannot keep neither chuck? If yes, then this is the right link for you. We will provide you with some of the most clever storage solutions to keep the stuff you don’t want around, out of your sight.

Importance of storage solution:

The importance is pretty clear. A clean and a spacious home gives the person living in it an incentive to keep it neat and tidy. It is always easier to perform tasks when there is enough place to move about in the house. A home, which is crowded with things, which are of no use, looks untidy and unclean. Also space makes a room look bigger and brighter.

Solutions:

Below have given a few ideas and remedies to help you clean your home of the unwanted junk. Some of the best places for storage are:

Attics: if your home already has an attic you will probably not be in so much trouble, but if not you may find yourself in a serious fix. Usually the ceiling of an average home is higher than required. You can easily create new attics or shelves at the top. You can also build temporary parallel ceilings. There will be ample amount of place there.

Building shelves over doors and windows: you could build a fancy looking shelf over the window, drape it wit an embroidered curtain or cloth to hide what id inside it. It will not only make t look uniquely attractive, but also solve your problem.

Walls: sometimes walls look ridiculously empty. They could be filled up with shelves of an antique look or some modern contemporary design.

Look around: if you do happen to look around outside your home you may be successful in finding place in some of the most unexpected places, like the garage or your green house. And sometimes space is very much available in your storerooms.

Storage systems

For any kind of manufacturing company, having a proper storage system is a must. From perishable items like food stuff to non perishable ones like automobiles, storage plays an important part. Storage systems can be f various types depending upon what is to be stored. They include:

1. Garage storage systems:
The garage is probably one of the largest rooms in one’s house, and stores some of your the valuable assets. With a little planning and a modest investment the garage can be transformed from a junk room to a calm and organized space that you’ll look forward to using.

2. Basement storage systems:
Basements can be pretty inhospitable places – damp, dark and cluttered. But they can make awesome storage systems if maintained properly. They need to be kept away from dampness and need to be properly lit up. The storage items should be kept in an organized manner so avoid a cluttered appearance.

3. Workshop tool storage:
There’s nothing more frustrating then spending one’s limited time in the workshop hunting for misplaced tools. Spending time on your hands and knees on your workshop floor to find small things that you rarely need isn’t actually a pleasant experience.

When a home inspector makes his way through your home, the flooring is one of the most important aspects of your home that he will assess. There are plenty of problems that can arise with flooring, and being prepared to fix these problems will save you money and time in the future. In addition to keeping your flooring in great condition, you’ll also be able to have peace of mind when it’s time for an inspection. Great floors look nice inside the home. Keeping these issues at bay will improve the aesthetic quality that people notice when they walk through your home.
The first way to help a floor meet inspection requirements is to explain to the inspector how your floor prevents water damage. If your wood flooring has protective wax coatings on it, show that the wax is in good condition. Keep in mind that some types of coatings last longer than others. You will need to have your wooden floors coated every 5 or 6 years for best results. When the water hits the wax coating, it’ll keep the actual wood safe from water damage. Before your inspection, you should have someone knowledgeable about floor install come and check your wax coatings to see if they need refinished.

Another way to pass your floor inspection is to make sure you can prevent warping. Warped floors occur when moisture gets under the wood and starts to grow mold. Keeping your floors dry in a literal sense is only one part of the problem. While it’s true that you need to clean up spills as completely and quickly as possible, you also need to keep humidity out of your home. Using a dehumidifier to keep the humidity levels in your air below 55 percent will help you keep your floors in good shape. The moisture won’t be able to seep into the cracks of your floor and build. It’s also good to use a type of spray mop instead of traditional wet mops. You don’t need all that water to clean. All it does it cause moisture to slip into the cracks of your floors.

Waterproof sealants should be used for your floor install. Typically, an inspector will not pass your floors if they don’t have special waterproof sealants. These materials keep the water from slipping through the cracks of your floor. Your floors will always look and smell great if the waterproof sealant is correctly applied from the beginning. The sealants help to keep your floors safe from warping, and mold growth will be kept to a minimum with the proper use of the sealants. A floor inspector will be able to tell right away if your floors have sealants, so you should have them installed if your floors don’t already have them.

Are your floors sturdy enough? Do your floors seem to sink slightly in the corners or where heavy furniture is placed? The actual structure of the floor is very important. It’s a common problem in homes when the joists for support aren’t properly fixed to the walls. It’s also possible that they simply aren’t large enough to hold your particular floors. You should have a home builder check out the stability of your floors, and get a price quote if necessary if it needs fixed.

Interesting Daylight Savings Time Paradoxes

• In September 1999, two bombs were passed from West Bank terrorists to their Israeli counterparts to be planted on busses. The men misunderstood the bombs’ timers because Israel had just switched back to Standard Time, causing the bombs to explode prematurely and kill only the terrorists.
• Daylight Saving Time can reverse birth order. If twins are born minutes before and after the fall switch, the baby born later will appear on paper to be born first. No babies are born from 2:00 a.m. to 3:00 a.m. after the spring switch.
• During the 1950s and 1960s, for five weeks out of every year, New York was on the same time as Chicago, but not Washington, D.C. or Baltimore. One year in Iowa, more than 23 different pairs of start and stop dates were observed for Daylight Savings Time. Most of these inconsistencies have been resolved, but Arizona remains an anomaly; the state does not observe DST, while its Navajo Nation does, but the Hopi reservation – which is situated entirely within the Navajo Nation – does not observe DST.

Origins of Daylight Saving Time

While Daylight Savings Time in its modern form dates back less than a century, ancient civilizations lacked artificial lighting and routinely adjusted their schedules to account for changes in sunlight. For instance, Roman water clocks measured and displayed hour lengths that differed based on the month. Modern DST was first proposed in 1895 by a New Zealand entomologist who realized the value of evening daylight while collecting insects at dusk. He proposed a two-hour daylight-saving shift, an idea that garnered considerable attention in his country. Independently, a British builder named William Willet proposed daylight saving in 1905 after witnessing during his early morning ride how many blinds had not yet been opened after sunrise. The House of Commons examined his proposal for many years but it never became law in his lifetime. It took a world war to entice legal changes, as Germany adjusted its clocks to conserve coal use in 1916. Britain and its allies followed Germany’s lead, trailed by Russia and the United States by 1918. These measures were met by a flurry of confusion, opposition and acceptance that has persisted to the present day.

How Daylight Saving Time Works

DST begins and ends in the spring and fall, when the clock is set forward or backward an hour, respectively. In the United States, these time shifts occur at 2:00 a.m. local time on the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November. In the European Union, time is shifted on the last Sundays of March and October, at 1:00 a.m. Universal Time so that the different time zones shift at the same minute. The early hours of a Sunday are chosen so as to minimize interference with weekly schedules. Hawaii and most parts of Arizona do not observe DST, along with parts of Canada, Europe and Australasia. Equatorial and tropical countries generally do not observe DST because daylight hours are similar year-round, eliminating the advantage of moving clocks forward during the summer.

Energy Conservation

The potential for Daylight Saving Time to conserve energy stems from its effect on the need for lighting, which accounts for about 20% to 50% of the total energy consumed in houses and offices in the United States. The theory is simple:  Overall, electricity consumption will be reduced if the energy saved at night by extending daylight hours outweighs the additional energy consumed during the morning hours when early risers are robbed of the sunlight on which they would normally rely. People thus gain illumination from the sun instead of artificial lighting in the late afternoon, and they are more likely to pursue outdoor activities that require sunlight rather than staying home, where they use computers, televisions and electric lights.

The oil crisis of the 1970s was reason for the first comprehensive study on the effect of Daylight Saving Time on energy expenditure; the U.S. Department of Transportation found that Daylight Saving Time trimmed national electricity usage by roughly 1% compared with Standard Time. Energy-use patterns have changed significantly since this study was performed, however, and the effects of DST on home and business energy usage have become far more complex and difficult to quantify. DST increases the need for air conditioning, for instance, as more hours of sunlight during the hours that people are home from work and school create additional cooling requirements. Moreover, the effects of DST on energy consumption are greatly affected by geography, climate and economics. A 2008 study determined that overall residential electricity consumption in Indiana increased as a result of DST by 1% to 4%, equating to a rise of $8.6 million in energy costs and a proportional release of emissions. Research also showed that DST caused an increase in energy expenditure in Western Australia for the years 2006 and 2007. The largest such study came in 2008, the year after DST was prolonged by four weeks; nationally, residences and businesses used 0.5% less energy overall, but large regional variances made it impossible to generalize its effectiveness as an energy-conservation tactic. States that saw an increase in energy consumption are located in hotter climatic regions where air conditioning is more likely to be used. Experts also pointed out that more evening hours of daylight encourage people to run errands and visit friends, thus consuming more gasoline.

Homeowners cannot choose whether to observe Daylight Saving Time, but they can reduce their energy consumption by switching to efficient lighting, upgrading outdated HVAC equipment, and investing in solar technology. They should consult with their InterNACHI inspector during their next scheduled home inspection if they have specific concerns.

Daylight Saving Time is a controversial practice of time-shifting that has the potential to decrease energy expenditure in homes and businesses.

4 Easy Steps For Adding Fiberglass Insulation and Cellulose Insulation

Adding attic insulation According to the EnergyStar™ Program, heating and cooling costs can be slashed by up to 20% per year by properly sealing and insulating the home. Adding attic insulation should be a top priority for preventing heat loss and increasing energy conservation because as heat rises, a critical amount of heat loss from the living areas of the home occurs through an unfinished attic.  During the summer months, heat trapped in the attic can reduce energy conservation and a home’s ability to keep cool, forcing occupants to further tax the home’s cooling system.

The aim should be to insulate the living space of the house while allowing the roof to remain the same temperature as the outside. This prevents cold outside air from traveling through the attic and into the living area of the home. In order to accomplish this, adequate roof vents must be in place to vent the roof by allowing air flow to enter through soffit-intake vents and out through ridge vents, gable vents or louver vents.

If there is currently a floor in the attic, it will be necessary to pull up pieces of the floor to install the insulation. In this case, it will be easier to use a blower and loose-fill insulation to effectively fill the spaces between the joists. If you choose to go with blown-in insulation, you can usually get free use of a blower when you purchase a certain amount of insulation.

When installing fiberglass insulation, make sure that you wear personal protective equipment, including a hat, gloves, and a face mask, as stray fiberglass material can be inhaled and cause irritation to the lungs, eyes and exposed skin.

Before you begin actually installing the insulation, there is some important preparation involved in order to ensure that the insulation is applied properly to prevent hazards and to achieve maximum effectiveness and energy conservation.

Step 1: Install Roof Baffles

When adding attic insulation, in order to maintain the free flow of outside air, it is recommended that polystyrene or plastic roof baffles are installed where the joists meet the rafters. These can be stapled into place.

Step 2: Place Baffles Around Electrical Fixtures

Next, place baffles around any electrical fixtures (lights, receptacles, etc.), since these may become hot while in use. Hold the baffles in place by cross-sectioning the rafters with 2x4s placed at a 3-inch clearance around the fixture.  Cut the polystyrene board to fit around the fixture and inside the wood square you have just created.

Step 3: Install a Vapor Barrier

If you are installing insulation with a vapor barrier, make sure the vapor barrier faces the interior of the house. Another option for a vapor barrier is to take sheets of plastic and lay them between the ceiling joists.  Then, using a staple gun, tack them to the sides of the joists. A vapor barrier should be considered as part of a moisture control strategy for your home.

Step 4:  Apply the Insulation

Begin by cutting long strips of fiberglass to measure, and lay them in between the joists. Do not bunch or compress the material; this will reduce the insulative effect.

If you are not planning to put in an attic floor, for increased energy conservation, a second layer of attic insulation may be laid at 90º to the first layer. Do not lay in a second moisture barrier, as moisture could potentially be trapped between the two layers. This second layer of attic insulation will make it easier to obtain the recommended R-value. In colder climates, an R-value of 49 is recommended for adequate attic insulation. In warmer climates, an R-value of 30 is recommended. Fiberglass insulation has an R-value of roughly 3 per inch of thickness; cellulose  has an R-value of roughly 4 per inch, but it doesn’t retain its R-value rating as well as fiberglass insulation.

If an attic floor is in place, it will be easier to use a blower to insert cellulose insulation into the spaces rather than fiberglass insulation. The best way to achieve this is to carefully select pieces of the floor and remove them in such a manner that you will have access to all of the spaces in between the joists. Run the blower hose up into the attic. A helper may be needed to control the blower. Blow the cellulose insulation into the spaces between the joists, taking care not to blow the cellulose insulation near electrical fixtures. Replace any flooring pieces that were removed.

Loose-fill insulation, either fiberglass insulation or cellulose insulation, is also a good option in cases where there is no attic floor. In such circumstances, you won’t need a blower as you would with cellulose insulation, and can simply place the insulation between the joists by hand. You may also wish to even out the spread with a notched leveler.

To have good energy conservation, ensuring that there is a free flow of outside air from the soffits to the roof vents is key to a well-functioning insulation system. The lack of adequate ventilation in insulated attics is a common defect. When inspecting the attic, look behind the baffles to see if there is any misplaced insulation obstructing the natural air flow, and check the roof vents to make sure that outside air is exhausting properly. Check for a moisture barrier under the insulation.  Also, look for spots where the insulation is compacted; it may need to be fluffed out.  In the case of loose-fill insulation, check for any thinly spread areas that may need topping up. Finally, look for dirty spots in the insulation where incoming air is admitting dust into the material.

Here are six steps in choosing the right faucet for you:

1. Two-handle designs, generally goes for as low as $50, allows you to regulate the temperature more accurately. Having independent control for the hot and cold water makes adjusting the temperature easier.

The single handle faucets also known as post-mount, generally goes for $75 to $200, operate from side-mounted lever or a top-mounted knob. Most single-handle faucets have pullout spouts.

The cross-shaped design and large wing levers are the more popular designs. However, most faucets have different handles that can be attached to a faucet body for a customized look.

2. If the style of the faucet is important, begin your choosing with the type of finish. The most affordable finish for a faucet is a chrome finish. Usually priced around $60. The chrome-finish has a long warranty on scratches.

The more colorful enamel coatings generally will cost you from $20 to $200 more, and are more susceptible to scratches and chipping. Add 25 to 40 percent more to the price of coated faucets for stainless steel faucets.

3. A PVD (physical vapor deposition) finish is better than usual plated finishes but add $150 to $750 more in costs. The PVD finish is done by vaporizing the metal and glazing it with a scratch-resistant and non-tarnishing film.

Look at brushed chrome, oil-rubbed bronze and satin nickel for a rustic appeal. The brushed finish and satin finish cleverly hides scratches.

4. There are more to spouts aside from the standard straight faucets. There are high-arching goose-like spouts, great for filling pots. A pull-out faucet can get you anywhere in a sink with three-bowls. You can go from a spray mode to a stream mode with a touch. There are also restaurant-type models for those extra long hoses.

5. Know that there are four kinds of faucets.

a. The compression valve:

The compression valve uses rubber washers. The compression valve type of faucet will eventually leak but they are typically easy to repair.

b. The ball valves:

The ball valve controls the flow and temperature of the water by using a steel ball. The ball valves are washerless and easy to maintain because of this. Replacing a ball valve is readily affordable and easy to do.

c. The ceramic disk

The ceramic disk is virtually a maintenance free water faucet. It is guaranteed not to wear out but is obviously much more expensive than the ball valve or compression valve.

d. The cartridge faucet

Much like the ceramic disk, the cartridge faucet usually does not need any maintenance. Just like the ceramic disk, it has a hefty price tag.

Regardless of the type of faucet you choose. Always check the warranty and the finish.

6. You may opt for filtering faucets, costing $200 plus, to bring in purified water. Several filters are placed under the sink while others are fitted inside the spout. To set the maximum water temperature, an anti-scald faucet can be used. An electronic faucet with an infrared sensor is also available. They save on water and allow for cleaner handles.

In general, you don’t need to hand over your hard-earned money to pay for good quality. Most faucets have the same basic parts and sometimes even the same finish across several price lines.

To have a streamlined, urban look, choose a faucet that is mounted on the wall, this is often used with vanity bowls.

Be sure that your faucet connection matches your sink holes. If they don’t match, you’ll have to provide more drill holes or cover the unused holes using an escutcheon plate.

All faucets in general carry at least one year warranties. Even the low-end models carry at least one year of warranty. Many faucets carry a warranty by the manufacturer that is more than one year.

Good luck choosing the perfect faucet for you.

Drinking Water

 

What contaminants may be found in drinking water?

Where does drinking water come from?

How is drinking water treated?

When a water supplier takes untreated water from a river or reservoir, the water often contains dirt and tiny pieces of leaves and other organic matter, as well as trace amounts of certain contaminants. When it gets to the treatment plant, water suppliers often add chemicals, called coagulants, to the water. These act on the water as it flows very slowly through tanks so that the dirt and other contaminants form clumps that settle to the bottom. Usually, this water then flows through a filter for removal of the smallest contaminants, such as viruses and Giardia. Most ground water is naturally filtered as it passes through layers of the earth into underground reservoirs known as aquifers. Water that suppliers pump from wells generally contains less organic material than surface water, and may not need to go through any or all of these treatments. The quality of the water will depend on local conditions. The most common drinking water treatment, considered by many to be one of the most important scientific advances of the 20th century, is disinfection. Most water suppliers add chlorine or another disinfectant to kill bacteria and other germs. Water suppliers use other treatments as needed, according to the quality of their source water. For example, systems whose water is contaminated with organic chemicals can treat their water with activated carbon, which adsorbs or attracts the chemicals dissolved in the water.

What are the health effects of contaminants in drinking water?

The EPA has set standards for more than 80 contaminants that may be present in drinking water and pose a risk to human health. The EPA sets these standards to protect the health of everybody, including vulnerable groups like children. The contaminants fall into two groups, according to the health effects that they cause. Your local water supplier will alert you through the local media, direct mail, or other means if there is a potential acute or chronic health effect from compounds in the drinking water. You may want to contact them for additional information specific to your area. Acute effects occur within hours or days of the time that a person consumes a contaminant. People can suffer acute health effects from almost any contaminant if they are exposed to extraordinarily high levels (as in the case of a spill). In drinking water,microbes, such as bacteria and viruses, are the contaminants with the greatest chance of reaching levels high enough to cause acute health effects. Most people’s bodies can fight off these microbial contaminants the way they fight off germs, and these acute contaminants typically don’t have permanent effects. Nonetheless, when high-enough levels occur, they can make people ill, and can be dangerous or deadly for a person whose immune system is already weak due to HIV/AIDS, chemotherapy, steroid use, or another reason. Chronic effects occur after people consume a contaminant at levels over the EPA’s safety standards for many years. The drinking water contaminants that can have chronic effects are chemicals (such as disinfection byproducts, solvents, and pesticides), radionuclides (such as radium), and minerals (such as arsenic). Examples of these chronic effects include cancer, liver and kidney problems, and reproductive difficulties.

Who is responsible for drinking water quality?

How can I help protect my drinking water?

Using the new information that is now available about drinking water, citizens can be aware of the challenges of keeping drinking water safe and take an active role in protecting drinking water. There are lots of ways that individuals can get involved. Some people will help clean up the watershed that is the source of their community’s water. Other people might get involved in wellhead protection activities to prevent the contamination of the ground water source that provides water to their community. These people will be able to make use of the information that states and water systems are gathering as they assess their sources of water.  Concerned citizens may want to attend public meetings to ensure that their community’s need for safe drinking water is considered in making decisions about land use. You may wish to participate when your state and water system make funding decisions. And all consumers can do their part to conserve water and to dispose properly of household chemicals

This Energy Efficient Home Improvement Will Save You a Bundle

There are a couple reasons for improving the energy efficiency in your home. You may realize we are impacting our environment and want to do your part to stop this. On the other hand, you may be tired of paying ever increasing utility bills. Regardless, you are ready to do something, but need to take a quick break before jumping in.

Most people automatically think the biggest cost associated with energy use in their home is heating it in winter and cooling it in summer. This would certainly seem to make sense from a logical perspective. In the case of energy, however, logical fails the test.

The biggest use of energy in your home is heating your water. This may be surprising at first, but think it through. How many times a day is the shower or bath cranked on? How many times a week is the dishwasher cranked on? Do you have a pool? How about a Jacuzzi? Each of these energy requirements adds up very quickly, particularly hot water for showers and dishwashers. The good news is you can make relatively painless home improvements to address these issues.

There is no denying we all need to take showers each day…at least I hope! To improve your shower energy use, there are a couple of basic steps you can take. First, get a low flow shower head. They cost a few bucks, but restrict the volume of water coming out. The less hot water used, the less your water heater has to crank up. Don’t worry, you will not notice a difference. Second, consider going with a solar water heater or a tankless system. Solar works best because there are no energy requirements from your utility, but a tankless water heater has advantages as well because it does not waste energy by firing up over and over during the day when you are not home. Regardless, just make the change.

As to dishwashers, there are two solutions. Again, solar water heaters overcome the problem by heating the water without tapping your utility lines. If you aren’t ready for that, get an energy efficient dishwasher. You are looking for a product that has an Energy Star rating. The rating signifies the dishwasher is designed to minimize energy use with a savings of at least 25 percent compared to traditional machines.

Going green is not nearly as painful as most people think. Making small changes, such as how you heat your water, can make a major difference to both the environment and your utility bill.

Some common moisture related problems include:

Note:  People who do not suffer from these ailments may still be harmed by elevated levels of airborne mold spores from moisture.

How does moisture get into the house?

Moisture or water vapor moves into a house in the following ways:

In the northern U.S., moisture vapor problems are driven primarily by high indoor relative humidity levels, combined with low outdoor temperatures during the winter. In the southern U.S. (especially the southeast), the problem is largely driven by high outdoor humidity and low indoor temperatures during summer months. Mixed climates are exposed to both conditions and can experience both types of problems. Humid climates, in general, will be more of a problem than dry climates. Wind-driven rain is the main cause of leaks through the building envelope.

Check for moisture intrusion in the following areas:

Roofs

Moisture through a roof leak may lead to the growth of visible mold colonies in the attic that can grow unnoticed. Roof penetrations increase the likelihood of water leaks due to failed gaskets, sealants and flashing. The number of roof penetrations may be reduced by a variety of technologies and strategies, including:

• consolidation of vent stacks below the roof;
• exhaust fan caps routed through walls instead of the roof;
• high-efficiency combustion appliances, which can be sidewall-vented;
• electrically powered HVAC equipment and hot water heaters that do not require flue; and
• adequate flashing. Oftentimes, inspectors discover missing, incorrectly installed or corroded flashing pipes.

Plumbing

• Distribution pipes and plumbing fixtures can be the source of large amounts of moisture intrusion. If the wall is moist and/or discolored, then moisture damage is already in progress. Most plumbing is hidden in the walls, so serious problems can begin unnoticed.
• One of the most important means of moisture management in the bathroom is the exhaust fan. A non-functioning exhaust fan overloads the bathroom with damp air. If the exhaust fan doesn’t turn on automatically when the bathroom is in use, consider recommending switching the wiring or switch. The lack of an exhaust fan should be called out in the inspection report. The fan should vent into the exterior, not into the attic.
• The bathroom sink, in particular, is a common source of moisture intrusion and damage. Although overflow drains can prevent the spillage of water onto the floor, they can become corroded and allow water to enter the cabinet.
• Use a moisture meter to check for elevated moisture levels in the sub-floor around the toilet and tub.
• Bathroom windows need to perform properly in a wide range of humidity and temperature conditions. Check to see if there are any obvious breaks in the weatherstripping and seals. Are there are stains or flaking on the painted surfaces?
• Check showers and bathtubs. Is the caulking is cracked, stiff or loose in spots? Are there cracked tiles or missing grout that may channel water to vulnerable areas? If some water remains in the bathtub after draining, it may be a warning sign of possible structural weakening and settlement in the floor beneath the tub.

Utility Room

• The water heater tank should be clean and rust-free.
• The area around the water softener tank should be clean and dry.
• Check that all through-the-wall penetrations for fuel lines, ducts, and electrical systems of heating system are well-sealed. All ducts should be clean and dust-free. Inspect the air supply registers in the house for dust accumulation.
• Filters, supply lines, exterior wall penetrations, vents, ductwork and drainage of the cooling system must all be in good working order to avoid moisture problems.

Attic

• Look for stains or discolorations at all roof penetrations. Chimneys, plumbing vents and skylight wells are common places where moisture may pass through the roof. Any such locations must be inspected for wetness, a musty smell and/or visible signs of mold.
• Are there areas of the insulation that appear unusually thin?
• Rust or corrosion around recessed lights are signs of a potential electrical hazard.

Moisture can enter a building in a number of different ways. High levels of moisture can cause building defects and health ailments

Rather than relying on low water pressure, common in most water lines, recirculating systems rapidly move water from a water heater to the fixtures.

Ceramic tile, due to its low required maintenance, ease of cleaning, and resistance to physical damage, is one of the most popular flooring materials available today. Made primarily from clay and other organic, as well as inorganic, materials,  ceramic tile is available in both glazed and un-glazed finishes. Ceramic tiles are vulnerable to a number of defects, however, that can be inspected for the following issues:

• uneven ceramic tile. Examine the tiles to see how level they are in relation to each other. Uneven tiles probably weren’t set correctly in the mortar, and reinstallation may be necessary;
• cracks, loose tiles and splitting. Cracks in ceramic tile are the result of movement in the tile underlayment, excessive expansion or contraction of the building during freeze-thaw cycles, abuse, or improper installation. Minor cracks in ceramic tile can be repaired with grout that matches the color of the ceramic tile, but larger cracks may require replacement of the ceramic tile;
• crazing. If tiles were cooled too quickly after kiln-firing, they can develop fine surface cracks, most often appearing as a fine, web-like network akin to cracked ice. Crazing is much more common in older, historic tiles than in modern tiles, but it still happens today. Crazing increases the rate at which tiles hold dirt, leading to discoloration; and
• cracked or discolored grout lines. Unsealed or improperly sealed grout will readily absorb moisture from the air or standing water, especially around showers and sinks. Some types of porous tiles may actually powder or spall if subjected to constant moisture. Damaged or discolored grout can be removed
  and replaced.

Natural stone tiles have a beauty that is difficult to recreate. They add an air of elegance and character to any home. Stone is more durable than ceramic tile, too, as it’s less likely to scratch, and holds up well under foot traffic. The unique and complex patterns can appear busy and overwhelming in large, empty rooms, however.  Stone is also more difficult to maintain than ceramic tile. The following maintenance and repair tips are recommended:

• Apply an impregnating sealant. An oliophobic sealant will repel both oil and water, and it’s especially helpful in the kitchen. Try to use a solvent-based sealant, as they’re generally better than water-based varieties.
• Quickly clean up any acids. Some of the more common stone tiles are marble and limestone, which are calcite-based, meaning that they will corrode when exposed to acids, such as vinegar or lemon juice. Unfortunately, sealants cannot protect stone against these substances, which will etch into the stone if left standing. Igneous stones, such as basalt and granite, as well as ceramic tile, are less vulnerable to acid damage.
• Lay walk-off mats or area rugs on either side of exterior entrances and instruct people to wipe their feet before they enter the home. The main cause of surface scratching on stone floors is dirt from outside that becomes caught under shoes and scraped across the floor. Scratching can dull the stone’s natural polish and damage its natural crystals, causing it to lose its shine and reflection.
• Use a good-quality stone soap, preferably one containing linseed oil, for regular maintenance and cleaning. In most cases, you can simply mop the soap and leave it to dry.

Ceramic tile and stone can be superb flooring materials, but water, acid, improper installation, and other adverse conditions may create defects.